- 2024
- Mar
- 29
No amount of whining will get you that information.
I may be alone here, but I’ve always found being asked for my “last three manager’s names, phone numbers, and email addresses” to be kind of odd. They don’t have time to be pestered by your questions, and what are you going to ask them? I can show you a W-2 to prove I worked there.
Beyond that, I don’t have contact with any of those people. It’s been too long for most of them, some of us parted ways long before places like LinkedIn were even a thing. That answer would usually satisfy most callers, especially when I pointed out they were asking for information from 1995. Do you remember your manager from 1995? Sure, I remember the guy’s name, but where is he - I have no idea.
One caller decided to be a little b**** and snippily asked me “Why don’t you want to give me these names?” Well, I just told you that I don’t have contact with them. “Well, I still need their contact information to proceed.”
Ok, sure. If you want to go nuclear, I have some nukes as well.
“You recently moved to a new job…”
“Yes, company was bought out. Technically, I still work there.”
“Uhhhhhhh, ok…how about the job before that?”
“My last manager was Bobby Blankspace.”
“Ok, well how do I get hold of him?”
“He’s dead. Heart attack after his wife left him.”
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaawkward.
“Well…how about at this job?”
“That was 20 years ago. That company doesn’t exist now. It was old and tired when I was there and most of the people were retirement age. If they’re still alive, I doubt they would do more than tell you where to go and quit bothering them because if I were retired and 85 that’s what I’d tell you. I used to have contact with one of my former supervisors, but he was fired for cocaine use and I lost track of him.”
Double Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaawkward.
“And before you go on to the next one, that was even farther back. I lost track of that person in 1995 when I left. The division closed and he followed what was left to Tennessee. He’s probably long since retired by now, and would be in his 80s if he’s still alive.”
…
“In fact, the only job I can reliably give you a contact for is the one where I was a freelancer, and my boss was me.”
…
…
…
The person was still snippy but shuffled me off the phone as quick as they could when it became apparent I couldn’t play their game.
I don’t want to be impolite, but when I tell you I don’t have any contact information for these people, and they probably won’t talk to you anyway - I’m not being nasty. It’s just the way it is when you’ve been doing this for 30 years.
The age of some of the callers made me think that, as they had grown up in a world where social media always existed, it’s completely alien to them that you wouldn’t have all of these people in various contact circles - not quite realizing that some of us were working before your parents graduated high school.
More likely?
Contacts of potential hiring managers mean more people you can market to.
That’s all. You’ll get names when we’re moving forward, not on a cold call where you just want to chat.
- 2024
- Mar
- 28
April Hamfests
There are two shows I have on my list for April.
The first is the Cuyahoga Falls Amateur Radio Club Hamfest. This indoor show usually attracts a good amount of vendors and lots of reasonably priced items. It’s well worth the drive and admission.
Cuyahoga Falls Amateur Radio Club Hamfest
Emidio & Sons Party Center
48 E. Bath Road
Cuyahoga Falls, OH 44221
April 13 2024
8A - 1PM
https://sites.google.com/cfarc.org/cfarc/hamfest
The second is a small show at the Tuscarawas County Fairgrounds in Dover / New Philadelphia. This was a very small show - only about an hour to see it all a couple of times, but again - a good mix of things to see and some good deals to be had. If you’re in the area, this is one to attend.
TUSCO ARC Hamfest
Commercial Building at the Tuscarawas County Fairgrounds
295 South Tuscarawas Ave
Dover, OH 44622
April 27 2024
8A - 1PM
https://www.w8zx.net/hamfest
See you there!
April 27th - these have both passed, next is the Dayton Hamvention!
My complete hamfest list, by no means exhaustive! https://wereboar.com … 1/2024-hamfest-list/
- 2024
- Mar
- 28
Dayton Hamvention is only about 6 weeks away.
It may be close to April Fool’s Day, but it’s not a joke - the Dayton Hamvention is only about 6 weeks away! Break open the piggy bank so you can bring home those treasures, and order your tickets now so they arrive in time, and so you’ll get the discounted rate. They’re good for all three days, and I’ll see you there!
Order your tickets here: https://hamvention.org/purchase-tickets/
- 2024
- Mar
- 28
By the power of the sun!
Remember these things? One of these kits (the 160-in-1 to be exact, which I still have) got me into electronics.
This one is a kit that I always wanted to get, but it never seemed to be available when I had the money. This particular example came from a popular auction site, new in box - even the crappy earphone is there! And yes, I plan on sitting down with it and building a few of the things in it.
It’s kind of a shame that stuff like this isn’t as easily accessible as it once was. Certainly, parts, microcontrollers, and other electronics are far easier to find - but this guided, all the parts are there all the time, no extra stuff save some wire needed kits don’t seem to be around these days. Perhaps the limited use doesn’t appeal to people like it did then?
Regardless, I didn’t necessarily know what the parts were doing, or why, but I knew I wanted to know more.
I salute you, humble kit of parts. You were (and still are) a wonder in a small box.
- 2024
- Mar
- 24
An Eico 145 Signal Tracer - Part 1
( Read the first part of this series here: https://wereboar.com … ignal-tracer-part-0/ )
I’ve decided to give this Eico 145 tracer a new lease on life and put it into service on my test bench - but to do so will require replacing the bad parts. Which ones? Pretty much all of the passives aren’t any good at this point. The device itself isn’t the cleanest example of it’s kind, with lots of battle scars. Paint and rust decorate the front panel and chassis, and input jacks have been added to the front.
The signs of use are the reasons I’m putting this on the bench. It’s already seen it’s share of use and won’t mind some more.
The chassis has the expected rust and age. That happens, there are no rust outs or severe damage here so I’m not worried about it.
The unit itself has some interesting things about it. There’s supposed to be a 10uF capacitor across this big 470Ω resistor. This is the cathode resistor for the audio output tube, and the capacitor is there to improve audio fidelity. I’m not sure if that was omitted because it’s not going to do much when most of your signal is 1Khz, or if it was damaged and removed at some point. The capacitor visible at the bottom is also an oddity, being an 800V part on the grid of a 6SJ7 - there’s nowhere near 800V present in this unit, and nowhere near B+ on this grid. Why this is such a high voltage part is a mystery but is probably just “That’s what I had on hand.”
The audio output transformer is somewhat of a mystery as well. I can’t tell if it’s been replaced or was just misdrilled. It doesn’t match the holes in the chassis, so I need to track down the part number and see what it was originally meant for.
Tape and wire and WTF indicate this thing had multiple repairs over the years. All of that needs to go.
Some more user friendly parts will be added to clean up the device and make it more accessible.
There are some other considerations to take into account. This device was originally meant to be ran on 110VAC - unlike our modern line voltages of 120 to 125VAC. This means B+ is hot, and filament voltage is well over 7VAC - in this case I measured 7.11VAC! That’s too hot, and will burn out the tubes in short order. Another restoration suggested a couple of parallel opposing diodes to drop the voltage in the filament line down, so there will probably be a couple 100V 2A diodes in this thing’s future. It was also suggested that the 6K6 is being run hot, so increasing the cathode resistor’s value (the large 470) would bring the power on the plate of this tube down.
Since most of the parts are being replaced, the analysis is just to make sure there aren’t any major problems that would stop the show - and I don’t see any. The next step is to create a new parts list from the schematic and get things ordered.
I’ll see you in part two with that schematic and a parts list.
Next part of this series: https://wereboar.com … ignal-tracer-part-2/
Previous part of this series: https://wereboar.com … ignal-tracer-part-0/
- 2024
- Mar
- 24
Pictures from the Scott Antique Market
The Scott Antique Market has closed for the season in Columbus, with the next show happening in November. There weren’t enough things to make a post for each of the past few months, so I’ve consolidated everything from this year into this one post.
The normal assortment of radios, televisions, and other electrical oddities showed up, with a number of just interesting or other neat things.
I did pick up one item that will be the subject of it’s own post, but until then - here are all of the things I found interesting from the last three shows.
- 2024
- Mar
- 17
An Eico 145 Signal Tracer - Part 0
I sat down with an Eico 145 Signal tracer this weekend, evaluating what it would need to put it back into daily service. The answer? Pretty much everything. Leaky wax capacitors, carbon comp resistors that are 50% off of their marked value, and a few “doesn’t appear to ever have been installed” parts complete the list of this thing’s issues. It’s amazing that it’s still working, but I would bet that continued operation would destroy the tubes in short order.
The large 470Ω resistor in the foreground was of interest. A quick shout out to a friend confirmed that this was a 2W part, not a high-voltage device. This makes sense, as the resistor could potentially dissipate 600mW at maximum plate current. It’s also interesting because there’s supposed to be a 10uF bypass capacitor across that part, but it looks like it was never installed!
Right under that, of course, is the across the line capacitor. That ’splodey boi gets replaced first.
A quick trip to mouser for components is in my future.
Next part of this series: https://wereboar.com … ignal-tracer-part-1/
Previous part of this series: https://wereboar.com … o-145-signal-tracer/
- 2024
- Mar
- 12
An unusual 115VAC demand meter.
I picked this unusual device up from an antique store in rural Pennsylvania, near where the groundhog works one day a year. It’s a fairly large place and prices vary, but it’s worth a couple hours of your time if you’re into that sort of thing, see the link below.
(The place seems to only have a facebook presence, and I’m not going to post one of those dirty links here - but here is the local chamber’s page for Yoder’s Antique Mall in Punxsutawney: https://punxsutawney … 73c05f142052452104c6.)
It’s a toolbox! Yeah, right on! Well…no, unless you’re interested in old toolboxes. It’s a fairly nice example of something from when Sears used to make things worth more than the metal it was stamped from. It’s what’s inside that I was interested in.
It’s a demand meter! Yeah, right on! Well…yes, but there’s something unusual about this one. It’s a 2-wire, 115VAC unit. While this is similar to what you would have on your house (or would have had before the electronic switchover,) those are usually wired for 230VAC instead.
This one appears to have been meant for sub-branch metering at some point, as evidenced by the easy-to-remove wiring compartment at the bottom of the meter’s housing. Whomever had this before me took advantage of that in that they wired a plug and outlet in line with the device - perhaps as a jobsite meter to pay the site owner for power consumed? Not really sure here save that all of the cable is pretty stiff and in need of replacement if it was going to be used.
Overall age of the device is in question as well - it looks to be 1930s, but Westinghouse probably made these things for decades. I suppose I could try and track it down by serial number, but who knows if those records still exist?
I tried it out by hooking it to a kitchen appliance with a heating element. It works as expected.
I’d like to get it out of it’s silicone covered metal box for a good cleaning, but that’s a project for another day.