- 2025
- Mar
- 25
Some thought on nostr after a few months.
A while back, I discovered a completely decentralized social network that fixed the centralized blocklist problem that a lot of federated social networks seem to have. After all, it doesn’t matter to me if you don’t like it, maybe I’d like to make that decision for myself.
You can read that post here: https://wereboar.com … etworking-via-nostr/
And, the nostr outlet I’m using is located here: https://satellite.ea … 0s9sn9xgulwfqsy6uf4w
Anyone is free to post, I’ll see that in my mod queue and approve it if it’s in the spirit of the community.
So what are my thoughts on this service? Well…
- It’s for techies, by techies.
This service isn’t well geared towards people who “simply want to use a social network.” It’s not friendly in the sense that URLs are long keys, and not something you could easily type in and go to. That is how the system works, however, and that’s not going to change unless some abstraction layer is placed on top of the service.
- It doesn’t have reach.
In part, that’s probably because of the daunting URL scheme, but it’s also because the market is so saturated with services that another one isn’t really needed or accepted, except by the aforementioned techies. It’s never going to have the reach - people say that they want to move to a new service every time their little bird does something to make them angry, but they always flood back. It’s going to take an extended outage for something to make that change.
- Spam. Lots of spam.
The service literally has no way to control spam. Anyone can submit things to a community you own or moderate - that’s the idea. But if it’s spam, there’s no way to shunt it off to the side. It simply sits in your modqueue forever, waiting for you to approve it. Anyone else can see it, and if you don’t keep up you’ll find there are hundreds of messages just sitting there. Some method of identifying and pushing this into a spam queue needs to be implemented, otherwise you’re just going to have abandoned communities full of spam waiting to be approved.
So…the long and short of it is that it’s not ready for primetime, even though it’s an interesting idea. Will it ever be ready for primetime? Who knows…but I’ll make the random post on the /oldtech community for you, and I invite you to do the same.
See you there!
- 2025
- Mar
- 25
What’s inside one of those can capacitors?
Pretty much exactly what you’d expect. Nothing really exciting…
I decided to take the top off the capacitor removed from the Heathkit AF-1 that I’m working with, since it’s completely dead and as light as can be. There’s probably no wet electrolyte left in this thing at all.
My pipe cutter made short work of the aluminum can, and it separated into two pieces.
As expected, this thing was dry as a bone. It looks to have used some sort of tar or other dark potting material, which was also dry and hard.
The material itself was just paper and foil, wrapped with old tape. I assume that somewhere in there are dividers for for the different sections.
There’s not much else to be said about this device. I’m going to pull the old material out and keep the base for other things, but the device itself gets replaced on the AF-1’s chassis.
Stay tuned for the power supply rebuild.
- 2025
- Feb
- 27
A new documents library home here at wereboar.
I’ve wanted to create an on-site documents library for some time, but just never dug into a simple web-facing file browser. Well, I just found Directory Lister, and it does exactly what I need. it presents all of the files with no fuss, no uploads, and no login needed - just pick what you want and download.
In order to save a little space, and prevent your browser from trying to open the file instead of downloading it, I’ve zipped up everything. If I can, schematics and documents of what I work on are all posted within this library. Check it out here: https://wereboar.com … r=wereboar-documents.
If you want a copy of everything in the archive, you can get that here: https://app.box.com/ … ide0trkeb0wi4j6nta20. This URL will change as I upload more documents and archive them, but I’ll try to keep at least two older versions available. I’ll post any new updates to the collected archive when they’re available.
More documents will be uploaded as I obtain them.
- 2025
- Jan
- 28
This is a test of the gallery plugin for Flatpress.
This is a test - does the gallery plugin here allow for multiple galleries on one page? If this page is broken, then no - it does not. If you see two galleries, then it worked. For 2025’s hamfest wrapup, I’m planning on putting all galleries on one page…thus the test.
SCARF 2025
. <--- this is here because the gallery plugin doesn't seem to terminate properly.
Fort Wayne 2024
.
Test succeeded.
This was a test, we now return to your regularly scheduled helping of old test equipment.
- 2025
- Jan
- 20
I’ve done a little maintenance on things here at wereboar.
I had to do a little low-level maintenance on things, and that involves doing some regeneration on stuff deep inside the system.
Everything should be back to normal save I’ve removed the last posts sidebar item. The main page shows 10 posts, so I didn’t see a need to re-show those same 10 posts in a widget. That probably saves you 0.01s per reload…
Regardless, if you see something broken, please let me know on LinkedIn or Mastodon.
- 2025
- Jan
- 7
Federated but disassociated social networking via nostr.
There are some federated, but disassociated services out there if you’re technically inclined to use them.
Federated means that there’s a multitude of sites all speaking the same protocol, but none of them are under a central banner (i.e. reddit, twitter, etc.) Disassociated means that it goes one step further and breaks you off into a mini-site. Why? This removes the ability of a mod of a site being able to chose who can follow users of their site, or who the site’s users can follow. Censorship resistant to a degree.
I’ve joined one such system called nostr, via a web client called Satellite Earth. It’s relatively easy to join, you get a private/public keypair to remember and that’s it.
I’ve created a community called oldtech:
https://satellite.ea … 0s9sn9xgulwfqsy6uf4w
and you’re free to join and post your old tech goodies. See you there!
- 2024
- Dec
- 28
It’s that time of year - get your Dayton Hamvention tickets early!
Tickets for the Dayton Hamvention are currently on sale at the early boar price of $26 - this is good until March 1st, at which point they’ll go to the normal $30.
You can order online for convenience, and doing so now allows plenty of time for the postal service to deliver them to you - especially if you’re not in the USA.
See you there!
Tickets: https://hamvention.org/purchase-tickets/
- 2024
- Dec
- 26
Selling something and you’ve asked AI to write the description? Good luck!
Do you buy any vintage equipment online, especially from a certain auction site? While this is probably a foolish thing to do because of the prices - sometimes you can find a very unique piece or a great deal on something you’ve wanted. Sometimes, very rarely sometimes.
However…one of the things I’ve noticed is the descriptions of the items have changed. Most used to be “I don’t know exactly what this is or how to test it. Assuming it’s non-working” or something along those lines. A fair assessment for a non-tech person.
But now, AI is writing things for people and it’s hilarious, but annoying because it’s now more valuable because it’s always “widely used in industry,” “well know for their stability,” or some nonsense. No, it’s a hobbyist piece or something made by a company that went out of business in 1974 because they no longer competed on the market.
There’s some serious SNAD material here, and if a dishonest person wanted to get stuff it would be easy enough to do as eBay seems to prefer the buyer’s word over the seller.
But when an unsuspecting buyer thinks they’re getting a device that does digital QAM/Digital Video because the seller just AI wrote some garbage and all they receive is an ancient Leader audio generator that wasn’t great when new - someone isn’t going to like the results.
If you’re selling something and you have no idea what it is, ask a friend. If you don’t have a friend, do 5 minutes of research and find out what it is. Copy the manufacturer’s boilerplate if you need to.
Just don’t tell AI “Write me a description of a Doo-More Signal Generator so I can sell it.” You’re going to get trash, and possibly a strike on your sales.
Just sayin.
- 2024
- Dec
- 22
A look back at 2024’s hamfest and shows.
As we say goodbye to 2024, I took a look at the shows I attended - there were quite a few of them this year, and it surprises me how many of them are in Ohio and the surrounding area. Had time allowed, I could have attended more, but one a month (or thereabouts) is a good schedule. To wrap the year up, here’s a link to all of the pictures from these shows.
I’m looking forward to the coming year’s schedule - you can find that here.
I’ll see you at the show!
Sunday Creek Amateur Radio Federation Hamfest
Event photos: https://wereboar.com … ek-arf-hamfest-2024/
Cuyahoga Falls Amateur Radio Club Hamfest
Event photos: https://wereboar.com … ahoga-falls-hamfest/
TUSCO ARC Hamfest
Event photos: https://wereboar.com … 4-tusco-arc-hamfest/
Dayton Hamvention
Friday photos: https://wereboar.com … 24-fridays-pictures/
Saturday photos: https://wereboar.com … -saturdays-pictures/
Sunday photos: https://wereboar.com … 24-sundays-pictures/
Breezeshooter’s Hamfest
Event photos: https://wereboar.com … ooters-2024-hamfest/
Columbus (OH) Hamfest
Event photos: https://wereboar.com … lumbus-2024-hamfest/
Johnstown Swapper’s Day
Event photos: https://wereboar.com … nstown-swappers-day/
Findlay Radio Club Hamfest
Event photos: https://wereboar.com … o-club-2024-hamfest/
The Cleveland Hamfest and Computer Show
Event photos: https://wereboar.com … 4-cleveland-hamfest/
The Scioto Valley Amateur Radio Club Hamfest
Event photos: https://wereboar.com … o-club-hamfest-2024/
MARC Hamfest
Event photos: https://wereboar.com … e-marc-2024-hamfest/
Fort Wayne Hamfest
Event photos: https://wereboar.com … -fort-wayne-hamfest/
Scott Antique Market - November
Event photos: https://wereboar.com … cott-antique-market/
- 2024
- Nov
- 11
A Heathkit IG-72 Signal Generator - Wrapup, set-up, and final thoughts.
The device is working properly and has been buttoned up and put in it’s home on the bench. Here are my thoughts on how things went…
Thoughts
This unit was really the opposite of everything you expect from an old device. All of the passive components inside, like resistors and capacitors, were in good shape and don’t need replacing yet - although at some point it probably will require electrolytics. That’s for future me to decide.
This device really shows that you have to expect anything with an older device. Parts that don’t do anything other than hold a part can degrade and cause issues, especially when working with the higher voltages present in a vacuum tube device. I never would have though that a tube socket would fail like it did. Sure, they fail because the sockets themselves get weak, corroded, oxidized, etc. and make bad contact, but arcing across? That’s new to me.
I supposed it shouldn’t be unexpected, carbon tracking is a thing. The moral of this story is expect the unexpected. Especially when working with an 60 year old device that was built from a kit.
The complete timeline for this project
Acquisition at the hamfest: https://wereboar.com … o-club-hamfest-2024/
I should fix this thing: https://wereboar.com … 72-signal-generator/
Part 1 - Observations: https://wereboar.com … part-1-observations/
Part 2 - Suspicions: https://wereboar.com … r-part-2-suspicions/
Part 3 - Parts? Parts! https://wereboar.com … t-3-do-i-need-parts/
Part 4 - It’s…fixed? https://wereboar.com … no-need-for-repairs/
Part 5 - We’re not done yet! https://wereboar.com … 5-were-not-done-yet/
Part 6 - Back up and running: https://wereboar.com … back-up-and-running/
Part 7 - I think we’re done: https://wereboar.com … 7-i-think-were-done/
Intermission - The bad part: https://wereboar.com … athkit-ig-72-socket/
Intermission - That odd light bulb: https://wereboar.com … ther-test-equipment/
Wrapup - You’re reading it now.
Notes on calibrating this thing.
The calibration - more of set up - for this device in the manual was written for a time when you probably didn’t have a Hi-Z meter on your bench, but pretty much everything is these days. Instead of following the manual, I did this:
Equipment required:
Oscilloscope
Voltmeter that’s accurate at 1kHz
Leads and stuff
1: Set the frequency to 1kHz, attenuator switch to maximum, and set the output level to ~5VAC RMS using your meter. Ignore the meter on the face of the unit for now. Connect your scope and meter to monitor the output.
2: Let the device warm up. Get it nice and warm. I put a cardboard box over mine to get it toasty. I think this is also how I got it to arc continually so be careful here - don’t set it and forget it. Heat is going to cause marginal things to fail. Check on the device every once in a while during warm-up.
3: After a few hours, when the device is warm, check the sine wave output on your scope. Slowly adjust the oscillator output control (the potentiometer on the inside of the chassis closest to the transformer.) Adjust the sine wave until you just start to get one of the tips cut off, and then back off a decent amount so you have a good sine. Note: These have decent high output with fresh tubes, you can probably back off a lot here.
4: Let it set for a while. You may need to adjust this sine wave a couple of times.
5: When you’re happy with the sine wave, adjust the output level to 5.00VAC RMS with your meter. Using the meter level control on the chassis (it’s the other potentiometer inside the unit,) slowly adjust until the device’s meter so that it agrees with your meter. I use 5V because it’s dead center of the meter’s scale.
You should be able to assemble the device at this point and have a clean sine with a reasonably accurate meter. Note, however that this meter isn’t calibrated at every scale and frequency, so it’s a best guess at all times. The manual even warns about this, so if you need a precise level always let the unit warm up and adjust with an external device connected.
After everything was said and done, I had an accuracy of about 2% with the selected frequency. I think that’s pretty good for a device from the late 50s.
Why did I choose 1kHz? Primarily because this is going to be used for signal tracing. You can choose whatever frequency you think is best for your purposes.
One of the things I’m considering is trying calibration at 10VRMS. That is, set the level control to the maximum, and then back the oscillator control off until there’s 10VAC on the external meter, then adjust the internal meter to follow. This should keep the system well within the linear range. That should be possible since the output is constant before it appears on the attenuator’s input - but there’s always the chance that it won’t oscillate at some point (frequency) because it’s lower than what the circuit is expecting. It’s going to require experimentation to see.
That’s all with this device. It’s been on quite a bit as I’ve used it for testing devices that are in the “keep or sell” pile. If anything else happens to this, I’ll post about it here on wereboar.
Previous part of this series: https://wereboar.com … 7-i-think-were-done/